Lost and Found

A team of cider makers, foragers, and orchardists are bringing forgotten apple varieties back from the past.

THE RANDOM APPLE TREE on a rugged clip of Galvin Road in the town of Cornwall, Vermont is unremarkable. Knob-kneed and overgrown by brambles, its wiry limbs are bare of fruit on a 12-degree day in January. The tree flanks a mottled fence opening onto a frozen slab of land sprawling toward the state’s Green Mountain range ten miles west. Wrapped bales of hay wait out the winter under leftover snow. It’s an unassuming starting point, though perhaps that’s true of many things lost and found.