Restaurant Review: Jamie Mammano’s Bar Lyon

Can classic French dining succeed in the trendy South End? Oui, oui. 

Curnonsky, the 20th-century culinary writer and pioneering prince of food tourism, once dubbed Lyon the gastronome’s world capital. Not an unfair judgment. The capital of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region in southeastern France brims with Michelin-starred restaurants and gave us the late chef Paul Bocuse, father of the nouvelle cuisine that defined the past century of fine dining. The lasting pillar of Lyonnais cookery, though, is that haute movement’s cultural opposite: le bouchon.